Rome — Where We Ate & Drank

Rome is our most-repeated Italian city—six visits, including two this year—and the list below is what survived that much scrutiny: pizza al taglio counters, trattorie around Trastevere, and the Jerry Thomas speakeasy that started Italy's whole cocktail revival. Go shoulder season; Roman summer is a beautiful mistake.

You'll find 45 restaurants (including Nannarella, Tonnarello, and La Nuova Piazzetta), 7 bars, 4 cafés, and 9 places we've stayed. Every spot we actually visited, nothing scraped from other lists.