Modena — Where We Ate & Drank

Modena pulled us back twice: once in summer, once in winter, both times for the holy trinity of balsamic acetaie, Parmigiano and a food scene that runs from Zemian's osteria to Massimo Bottura's orbit. We stayed at his Casa Maria Luigia and ate accordingly, gathering 23 restaurants we'd return to tomorrow.

The Ferrari museum is ten minutes away for the full Emilia experience, but honestly, we spent most hours chasing traditional balsamic at Acetaia Giusti and bouncing between trattorias and wine bars that made leaving harder each time.