Bologna — Where We Ate & Drank

Bologna in July was a tour of the carb canon — Sfoglia Rina's tortellini, La Prosciutteria's boards, gelato between porticoes — with Senza Nome's sign-language bar and Guero's mezcal as the chasers. It's the least touristed of Italy's great food cities, which is exactly the pitch.

We stayed at Grand Hotel Majestic già Baglioni and spent most of our time eating: thirteen restaurants, four bars, and enough tagliatelle to understand why Bologna owns this reputation. Spring and fall are ideal, but summer works if you stick to the porticoes' shade.