We ate our way through 12 restaurants in Palermo—from Panificio Graziano's panelle to Villa Igiea's elegance. Real recommendations from a July visit to Sicily's chaotic, beautiful capital.
Palermo in July was street-food school: panelle from Graziano, arancine from Ke Palle, granita before noon because it's survival. The cathedral and the Pretoria fountain anchor the old city's beautiful chaos, and Villa Igiea—freshly Rocco Forte'd—is the grand-dame stay.
Sicily in high summer is intense; September is the smarter play. But we still managed to eat exceptionally well across a dozen spots, from focaccerias to proper sit-downs. Here's where we went.
Plan your Palermo days with these picks →