Madrid — Where We Ate & Drank

Three visits taught us Madrid runs on its own clock — dinner at ten, Salmon Guru's cocktail theatrics at midnight, and vermút at Viva Madrid the next afternoon to reset. Rosi La Loca and the Gran Vía tapas sprawl cover the fun end; eight Michelin-starred saves the serious one.

May and October are the months Madrid was built for. We've mapped 23 restaurants and 5 bars we actually ate and drank at, from El Rey de los Tacos to Inclan Brutal Bar, so you can skip the guesswork and go straight to what works.