Oaxaca — Where We Ate & Drank

Oaxaca in Día de Muertos week rearranged our sense of what a food city can be. Boulenc's bakery line moves fast, Nanita and Labo Fermento pushed the modern end further than we expected, and the mezcalerías — El Hijuelo especially — poured the education.

We ate at 20 restaurants and drank our way through 15 bars, from República Cozana's inventive cocktails to La Cueva's moody mezcal den. Book everything early if you're coming for late October; the whole world has caught on.