Lisbon — Where We Ate & Drank

Lisbon in March: pastéis warm from the Belém ovens, bifanas at a counter the size of a hallway, and ginjinha shots poured through a hole in the wall. Feitoria holds the Michelin end down by the river. The hills are a workout, the light is famous for a reason, and winter here embarrasses most cities' springs.

We ate at 9 restaurants, drank at 8 bars, and tracked down 2 cafés worth the climb. Every place below is somewhere we actually went—no filler, no sponsored spots, just what worked when we were hungry or thirsty in this city.