Cologne — Where We Ate & Drank

Cologne in December meant Christmas markets under the cathedral, kölsch in tiny glasses that never stop coming, and Ox&Klee for the two-star counterpoint. Papa Joe's jazz bar delivered pure schmaltz and pure joy. The Dom's towers were the workout; the glühwein was the reward.

We spent our days exploring thirteen restaurants across the city—from fine dining at Le Moissonnier to casual spots like PIZZA PASTA LUCCA—and our evenings bar-hopping through five favorite drinking dens. Every place here is somewhere we actually ate, drank, or slept.