Sofia — Where We Ate & Drank

Sofia was the surprise of our Balkan spring: Nevsky cathedral's gold domes glinting above the city, rakia flights at Raketa (Soviet kitsch fully intact), and 5L's speakeasy pouring drinks that would hold up in London at a third of the price. Vitosha mountain sits right there for a morning hike.

We spent days wandering between churches, the Ancient Serdica ruins beneath the metro, and café terraces that come alive in May, June, and September. This guide covers the 18 places we actually visited — restaurants, bars, churches, museums, and one excellent park.