Belgrade — Where We Ate & Drank

Belgrade was the loud, generous surprise of our Balkans spring: kafana dinners at Pavle Korchagin that turned into singing, burek from Trpkovic before noon, and a cocktail crowd (Belgrade Cocktail Club, Druid) that stays out later than we could. The Church of Saint Sava at dusk is the postcard; the kafanas are the point.

We spent days wandering Kneza Mihaila, nursing coffee until it was time for rakija, and eating our way through 13 restaurants that reminded us why Serbian hospitality has a reputation. This guide covers everything we tried—the bars, the sights, the meals we're still thinking about.