We ate and drank our way through 5 restaurants and 4 bars in Beirut, from Tawlet's unforgettable home-cook meals to Ferdinand's defiant cocktails and Al Beiruti's mezze spreads.
Beirut in November fed us with both hands: Tawlet's home-cook rotation — the meal we still tell people about — Al Beiruti's all-day mezze, and a bar scene (Ferdinand, House of Butlers) running on pure defiance. The corniche at sunset holds the whole city.
We visited 5 restaurants, 4 bars, and made it out to Jeita Grotto before the rain came. Spring and late autumn are the gentle seasons, when the city shows its softer side between the chaos.
Plan your Beirut days with these picks →